Tournesol - Restaurant Review of French Bistro

Tournesol. It's the French word for sunflower, derived from the Italian tornasole, or "that which turns toward the sun." Whether it's said with Continental flare or a New York accent, in Long Island City, Tournesol is synonymous with delicious and inexpensive French bistro fare. The very popular restaurant is a bright spot you can't help but turn toward for its delicious brunch and dinner specials.

Long Island City evokes many things, but Paris? Nestled on the neighborhood's main strip is Tournesol, a small and welcoming French bistro adamantly doing its part to bring a little of France to this side of the East River.

The dining room is smallish but airy. Expect close, neighborly tables. The ambience is cheery and distinctly French, with a well-appointed bar, mirrored back wall, tin ceilings, and accented waitstaff. Artwork by an LIC artist decorates the walls, adding a touch of the local scene.

The menu is traditional bistro fare: hanger steak with fries ($16), grilled chicken with garlic ($14.50), escargots with tarragon sauce ($8.50). Though a dinner special or two may surprise you, there's nothing groundbreaking here. But don't mistake the orthodox for the ordinary.

Tournesol's burger ($10.50) is a luscious ball of beef, hand-formed and cooked to a juicy and savory perfection. Salted, crisp frites make the ideal bed for this majestic burger.

Befitting a French bistro, Tournesol features the queen of all pressed hot sandwiches, the Croque Madame ($9.50). It's the real deal, with fluffy toasty bread, creamy béchamel, paper-thin slices of ham, and a broiled crunchy and chewy crust of tangy, but not overwhelming, Gruyère cheese. The Madame is crowned with her traditional fried egg, and accompanied by a glorious salad of delicately bitter greens in a house vinaigrette.

If you're lucky, the gracious proprietor may visit your table and toast to your brunch with homemade mimosa-like cocktails. We found ourselves with a refreshing blood-orange-and-white-wine concoction, compliments of the house. Paired with a plump little square of bread pudding for dessert, the unlikely flavor combination brought a fruity yet weighty end to our meal.